With Bali’s defeat in the 14 century, invading Javanese
set up court in Samprangan and then at Gelgel in the 1 an
internal revolt during the mid 1600s moved the capital to
Klungkung. Strife over the next 2 centuries caused factions
to set up rival courts throughout Bali, yet all recognize
Klungkung as the highest royal authority in the early 19 as
rulers of South Bali were subdued by the Dutch.
Klungkung remained the last stronghold until 1908 a towering
new monument commemorates the final battle. Most of the palace
was destroyed except for the main gate and 2 pavilions, Kerta
Gosa in famous for its painted ceiling of punishments in hell,
animal tales, and an earthquake chart, and the Bale Kambang
has paintings of Buddhist lore, folktales, and traditional,
astrology. Artists from Kamasan still paint in this puppet-style,
a school perpetuates this ancient art.
A
more recent craft turns to used artillery cases for metalwork.
Near the coast is the old capital of Gelgel with the Pura
Dasar temple The beaches at Jumpai are important for purification
rites. A cross the water is Nusa Penida former island of exile
for Klungkung’s criminal and home to the great fang
demon and the Dalem temple, both associated with black magic.
The island and neighboring Lembongan and Ceningan have caves
to explore and excellent snorkeling; seaweed is also farmed
in shallow coastal beds.
Klungkung’s market is great for textiles from the mountain
villages and those further east. North of town is the peaceful
Taman sari Sari temple, out west is Tiingan where musical
instruments are made, and going east is a huge bridge spanning
the wide Unda river. Colorful umbrellas made in Satria line
the streets, and in nearby Paksa Bali village trance battles
between deities occur. Off the main road, a huge sand and
gravel quarry operates continuously with a blazing furnace.
Along the coast is the fishing and salt-making village of
Kusamba, where thousands of bats and a huge python live in
the cave-temple of Goa Lawah.
